Exploding with Happiness!: Return to St. Peter's

This morning, I had a companion for my pre-breakfast ramble. Evan wanted to get some exercise, so the two of us walked down to the Tiber, where there is a running and biking path on the far (Trastevere) side. Evan took off for a good run. I walked a ways south, down by the Ponte Rotto, and then went into Trastevere to find the church of Santa Cecilia. This church was built over the home of St. Cecilia, who was an early Christian martyr killed here in 303. The church is a wonderful Roman palimpsest. The current church was built in the 10th century. It has an 18th century facade over the 10th century portico. Inside, there is a wonderful 13th century canopy by Arnolfo di Cambio over the altar, and 9th century mosaics in the apse behind. Beneath the church is a crypt filled with artifacts excavated from the early Christian gathering place. By ringing the bell of the cloister next door, I was able to go inside (escorted by a 90-year-old nun who couldn't have been more than 4' 6" tall) to view the late 13th century Cavallini frescoes at the back of the church. These were very beautiful. The individualized features and natural appearance of the disciples represent one of the earliest breaks from the medieval to the beginning of the Renaissance.

Since Evan had not yet arrived in Rome when we visited the Vatican Museums and St. Peter's last Friday, we decided to make a return visit today after breakfast. This time, we rented audio guides for the basilica. They provided a lot of information about the various chapels, statues, monuments and tombs inside the basilica, which enhanced our appreciation for what we were seeing. In addition, the area around the altar, which had been roped off when we visited previously, was open, so we were able to get a closer look at the baldachino, the pillars surrounding it and the apse behind the altar.

When we emerged from the basilica, we headed to the line for the cupola. Unlike Sara on her previous visit, who climbed all 551 steps to the top, we opted for the elevator, which eliminated about 230 steps from our climb. At the top of the elevator, we entered the base of the dome and circled, looking down on the main altar as mass was proceeding below. The scale of the dome is enormous! There are huge mosaic depictions of angels and saints and putti. We then climbed to the lantern at the top of the dome. This climb is up various narrow staircases and passageways between the two layers of the dome. It was a relief to emerge into the fresh air, and what a view! We enjoyed spotting many of the various landmarks we had visited over the past few days.

By the time we got back down to the piazza, we were starving. We walked back to our neighborhood and had dinner at a great pizza restaurant that Mary (Sara's host mom) had recommended. From there, it was only a few more steps to our apartment (plus the four vertical flights), where we collapsed.