Exploding with Happiness!: A Palazzo, and Laura!

Predictably, although we stayed up too late last night, when I awoke this morning, it was impossible to stay in bed, knowing that Rome was right outside our front door. So while Steve got some extra shut-eye, I went exploring. I was heading in the general direction of Campo dei Fiori to pick up some breakfast supplies, but didn't intend to make an efficient errand of it. My first sightseeing stop was the baroque church of Sant' Andrea della Valle. It has an important and innovative facade and a sumptuous interior, including with the second largest (after St. Peter's) dome in Rome with frescoes by well-known baroque artists. It also has some playful angels that I especially enjoyed.

After the church, I stopped for a latte and then continued on my way, through Campo dei Fiori and down to Piazza Farnese and Via Giulia. However, I don't mean to suggest that my progress was direct. It was a beautiful morning and I had fun wandering around lots of narrow, twisting cobblestone streets. This part of Rome is where different tradespeople and merchants had their shops in the Renaissance. The practice was for shops of a particular trade to locate near each other, which is reflected in the street names. I walked along Via dei Cappellari (hat makers), Via dei Giubbonari (jerkin makers), Via dei Balestrari (cross-bow makers!) and Via dei Chiavari (locksmiths). The area is as picturesque as the names suggest, although I didn't notice any present-day shops of these trades. Passing back through Campo dei Fiori, I purchased my breakfast supplies (crusty rolls in that distinctive Roman flower shape) and headed back to the apartment.

After Steve and I had our breakfast, we went out to Sara's school again, but this time, we met her there and she showed us around. The school is a few classrooms several floors up in an old building overlooking Piazza del' Orologio and with a great view of Borromini's clock tower (and the clock, with no hands, as Sara pointed out). A highlight of the school visit was a chance meeting with Tracy and Gabby, two of Sara's good friends and travel companions.

The main focus of our afternoon was the Palazzo and Galleria Doria-Pamphilij. This wonderful 17th century palace houses a truly magnificent collection of paintings and sculptures. The Doria-Pamphilij family boasts as its most important member Pope Innocent X. Innocent X's nephew's descendants still own the Palazzo. In fact the current prince provides a very informative and charming narrative in the audioguide provided with admission to the gallery. The collection includes Bernini's famous bust of Innocent X, several early paintings by Caravaggio, a beautiful early Titian, and many, many more.

After a late lunch in the tea room adjacent to the gallery, we thought it was time to go meet Laura. However, when we checked on her plane, we learned her flight was about 90 minutes late. That worked out fine for us, as we were able to get to the Vodafone store and purchased SIM cards so that we can get cell phone service economically through a local carrier. Turns out my Italian was better than our salesclerk's English so we conducted most of the transaction in Italian. I THINK I got the terms of our service straight!

Laura's plane by then had reached Rome, so we grabbed a cab and headed to the main train station to meet her bus. It was so good to see her! Famous Laura hugs all around! Another cab ride and we were all back to the apartment. Sara was heading out for a final dinner with everyone in her program tonight. Fun but bitter-sweet, since the kids will all scatter in the next day or two.

Laura, Steve and I relaxed for a bit and then walked across the Tiber to Trastevere. We were all pretty hungry and tired, and eager to try Dar Poeta, a pizza place that Sara highly recommended. The pizza lived up to its advance press. We each ordered a different type - the signature Dar Poeta (zucchini and sausage), Superbuffala (lots of creamy fresh mozzarella, artichoke hearts and olives) and classic Margherita. However, the Sara-recommended nutella calzone surpassed all expectations. A leisurely meander through the neighborhood and back across the river, finished off with Laura's first pass through Piazza Navona, completed our evening.